AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SEPTEMBER 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH But first a spirit: SKINOS MASTIHA SPIRIT (DS Concepts), +91033 Vintages, $37.95 for 700 mL, a digestive, 30% ABV. It contains extract from Mastiha (the “crying tree”) which flourishes only on the island of Chios in the Mediterranean. Each tree produces between 80 to 200 grams of resin “tears” each year. The resulting oil has been renowned for its medicinal properties. Distillation is with added alcohol; after that, some sugar and de-ionized water are added. Skinos is the ancient Greek name for mastiha. You can use it with lemonade, tonic water, with lemons and basil leaves, as a martini. Or as a shot with a bite into a wedge of tangerine. I was introduced to it at the launch party of Taste of the Danforth in August. A. From Hillebrand in Niagara, in its Artist Series, mid-price range, all 2007 vintage, and all twist topped: 1. Hillebrand Artists Series Riesling 2007 VQA: 11.5% ABV, lighter Riesling tones, more toward apples and lemons. $10.75 for 750mL (+88377) and $19.95 for magnums at Vineyard Estate Wines stores. 2. Hillebrand Artists Series Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA: 12.5% ABV, herby with refreshing stone fruit and some melons. $10.45 at winery. 3. Hillebrand Artists Series Muscat 2007 VQA: 11%, off-dry sipper with grapey and peach tones, some orange too. A good wine to sit around with. $11.95 at Vineyard Estate Wine stores and at the winery. 4. Hillebrand Artists Series Gamay Noir Rose 2007 VQA: 12% ABV. The PR notes mention cherry, strawberry jam, and red currant jelly, with some rhubarb flavours. The label mentions NONE of this, but does mention raspberry. I found it a lot like JuicyFruit, but very fresh and refreshing. $11.95 at Vineyards Estate Wines stores and the winery. 5. Hillebrand Artists Series Gamay Noir 2007 VQA: 12% ABV is extremely youthful and plumy, but with some toast and tartness. Late fall BBQ. $11.45, +58610 at the LCBO. 6. Hillebrand Artists Series Meritage 2007 VQA: 13% ABV. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc in a traditional Bordeaux blend. But it is too early yet to tell, although the body is medium styled. The 2005 was dynamite for the price, and there is no reason to suspect anything less here. $12.95 bargain priced, +56390 at LCBO. B. Other Hillebrand wines noted: 7. Hillebrand Limited Edition Series Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA: 13% ABV. Definitely a step up from the Artist Series, with some pineapple, good acidity, herbal; body, and terrific with food. Only 362 cases made. $16.95 at the winery. 8. Hillebrand Limited Edition Series Gewurztraminer 2007 VQA: 13% ABV, classic Alsatian mode, floral with a spicy finish. $16.95 at the winery. 9. Hillebrand Limited Edition Series Pinot Gris 2007 VQA: 13% ABV, with a sweet core of stone fruit plus pear puree. $16.95 at the winery. C. From Colio Estate Wine, in its new Girls’ Night Out brand (with the shapely dresses on the labels), VQA from Lake Erie North Shore. Women buy more wine than men: 10. Colio Estate Wine Girls’ Night Out Chardonnay VQA Lake Erie North Shore: 12.7%, refreshing from stainless steel tanks, with 3% gewürztraminer added for extra aromatics. Definitely floral, some musk quality? +89821, $12.95. 11. Colio Estate Wine Girls’ Night Out Merlot/Chardonnay 2007 VQA Lake Erie North Shore: 12.5% ABV, not marketed as a rose. Merlot is 60% of the blend, rest is chardonnay. Taste has been described as red berry and rhubarb pie, as in “strawbs and barb” (my term). 12. Colio Estate Wine Girls’ Night Out Merlot 2006 VQA Lake Erie North Shore: 13.3% ABV, a bit heavy for the line but aggressive flavours due to a year in oak barrels. Note the vintage: one year earlier than the other two. Plummy and toasty. Twenty-five cents from each bottle sold will go to a bursary for female students enrolled in second year trades at Ontario CAATs. There is also a Vintage Gems jewelry box, which will be available for purchase during the Christmas season for $49.95, which includes one of each of the three wines. That’s $11.10 for the box, which has clear plastic door inserts and a drawer. More details at www.girlsnightoutwines.com D. From Applewood Farm Winery, a sustainable and natural fruit winery with a modest level of grape production, located in Stouffville. It has not yet applied for organic certification. No products are at the LCBO, so you’ll have to order from the winery: www.applewoodfarmwinery.com -- 13. Raspberry Cider Crazy Eights (or, Crazy 8s), $3 a 341 mL capped bottle, 8.8% ABV. This must be my all-time favourite drink – intense raspberry tones, slightly off-dry (less sweet but more fruit flavour than last year), and nice fizz. Sparkling fruit wines are gorgeous, and this one at just below 9% surely qualifies as a wine. 14. Strawberry Cider, $10.95, 750 mL sparkler, 70% apple wine and 30% strawberries. From a tank sample. Overwhelming flavours of strawberries, despite only a 30% usage. Slight undertones of malic acid, but still more strawbs than one expected. Dee-licious. 15. Mac Meade Sparkling, $12.95 750 mL, 7% ABV, winner of “Best of Category” Gold at the 2008 All Canada Wine Competition. A glorious combination of Macintosh apples and mead, some apple peel with botrytis. My company raved about it, it was so intense with honeyed tones and a slight malic acid on the palate. 16. Dry Macintosh 2007, $9.95 for 750 mL, November release, spends a year on lees for added complexity. My sample had a clean, crisp, and clear body, slightly full, with tons of apple peel and an off-dry finish. One to put up against a stainless steel Chardonnay. 17. Applewood Farm Elora’s Harvest 2007, $12.95 750 mL, 12% ABV, 55% Macintosh apples and 45% Seyval Blanc grapes. This “social” wine has an off-sweet combination without an overpowering apple complexity. 18. Applewood Farm Proprietor’s Reserve 2007, $14.95 750 mL, 13% ABV, comprised of Dornfelder (a red grape very important in Germany), Baco Noir, and black cherries. Impressively deep wine, with a backbone of, of course, cherries. Very fragrant and intense, slightly off-dry. E. From Peter Mielzynski Agencies (PMA): 19. Drostdy-Hof Chardonnay 2007, $9.65 LCBO +343202, very nice citrusy character, suits a wide range of dishes. Gentle vanilla and oak tones. “Killer Value” status as a top performing wine under $15, at the 2008 International Value Wine Awards (Wine Access). 20. Drostdy-Hof Merlot 2007, $9.95 LCBO +34571, red fruit and smaller spices, minor oak presence, good performer and matcher for the Chardonnay as a red-white pair. “Killer Value” status as a top performing wine under $15, at the 2008 International Value Wine Awards (Wine Access). F. From Chateau des Charmes: 21. Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2005 St. David’s Bench VQA: $19.95 at winery. 13% ABV, barrel-fermented and then aged sur lie for one year on French oak. Nicely full-bodied wine with elements of tropicality and a creamy texture. Complex, but will open up in future years. Like most Chateau des Charmes wines, this one can take a few more years of aging, and get better. 22. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 St. David’s Bench VQA: $25.95 at winery. 13% ABV. Aged one year in French oak, showing MVC of Bordeaux quality – cassis, tobacco, some mocha, even some red fruit. Needs a bit of time to resolve, keep another five years. 23. Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling 2006 Niagara on the Lake VQA: $19.95 at winery. Year in and year out, great value in a racy off- dry finish Late Harvest Riesling. Some tropicality but more peaches, 11% ABV, can hold for some time and get even better! Good Riesling character, demands blue cheese. G. From Stoney Ridge, all available at the winery: 24. Stoney Ridge Reserve Cabernet Franc 2006 Wismer Vineyard 20 Mile Bench, 13.5% ABV, two years of oak aging, with notes of black fruit (cherry, blackberry), some forest floor but also an unexpected medium body. 25. Stoney Ridge Reserve Chardonnay 2006, 12.5% ABV, softer tropical fruit, some cream and condensed milk, top notes of melons. 26. Stoney Ridge Rose 2007, a winning formula of a dynamite blend of pinot noir and Riesling. There is summer in every drop here, floral strawbs and off-dry finish. From the fabled 2007 vintage. 27. Stoney Ridge Reserve Merlot 2006, 12.5% ABV, oak aged, plumy and soft, an MVC merlot with some leafy tobacco notes. 28. Stoney Ridge Icewine Vidal 2007, 8.5% ABV, 200 mL, smartly marketed in the smaller bottle (the bottle is also more stable when standing up). Brix was apparently 37.7 – 46.7. Highly concentrated, good apricot tones set off by some tropicality. New winemaker Ray Cornell’s first vintage for Stoney Ridge. 29. Stoney Ridge Icewine Riesling 2007, 8.5% ABV, 200 mL. Good value in a smaller bottle. Harvested January 20, 2008, pure apricot and peaches, with a note of bracing acidity. 30. Stoney Ridge Icewine Cabernet Franc 2007, 11.5% ABV, 200 mL bottle. Barrel fermented in French oak, salmon colour, red fruit components (cream soda-like?), higher acid and alcohol makes it appear less sweet. Needs dark chocolate, say 85% level. ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday September 10, 2008 11AM to 1:30 PM The Event: Media Preview Tasting of Wines of Chile, in advance of the October 1 show at the Fermentations in the Distillery District. The Venue: Crush Wine Bar (downstairs) The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available in the LCBO system except for two which were private orders. The Quote: “Some amazing wines here…” The Wines: some 50 wines were offered in a blind tasting. Sometimes we did not know the varietals. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Cousino Macul Riesling Dona Isidora 2007, +57182, $11.95. -Vina Amayna Chardonnay 2006 Leyda Valley, +76265 Vintages, $23.25. -Vina Caliterra Carmenere Tributo 2006, $16.95 consignment (Calibrium). -Vina Valdivieso Malbec Reserva 2006, $22.45 consignment (Carriage Trade) -Vina Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Syrah Haras Elegance 2004, +640672 Vintages, $33.75. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina MontGras Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2007 +58632, $11.95. -Vina Maipo Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Especial 2008 +81216 Vintages Nov. 22, $16.95 -Vina Maipo Carmenere Reserva 2007 Rapel, $13.95 consignment (Select) -Vina Botalcura Carmenere La Porfia Grand Reserve 2005, +61887, Vintages, $18.95. -Vina Undurraga Carmenere Sibaris Reserva Especial 2007, +96602 Vintages, $15.95. -Vina Cono Sur Pinot Noir Vision 2007, +689992 Vintages, $15.95. -Vina Errazuriz Shiraz Max Reserva 2006, +614750, $17.75. -Vina Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere Albis 2004, +579813 Vintages, $55. -Vina Anakena Cabernet/Merlot/Carmenere ONA 2006, +59493, $17.95. -Vina Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005, +32110 Vintages, $17.95. -Vina Requingua Cabernet Sauvignon Toro De Piedra Reserva 2006, +39362 Vintages, $14.95. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Cono Sur Carmenere Vision 2007, +59360 Vintages, $15.95. -Vina Cousino Macul Cabernet Sauvignon Antiguas Reservas 2006, +212993, $15.45. -Vina MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2007, +619205, $12.20. -Vina Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Digna Reserve 2006, +177451 Vintages, $14.95. The Food: basic gourmet sandwiches and salads from Crush. The Downside: initially, there was no paper on which to write notes. The Upside: relaxing, easy to focus on the task at hand, no one talking to me. The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 1 PM to 3:30 PM The Event: a tasting of Fabiano (Veneto) wines, and a lunch. The Venue: Romagna Mia The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available. We tasted four off the General List, plus five that are on Rapid Release at the LCBO for Saturday September 27. Apparently, Veneto wines are the hottest category, and the LCBO could not wait until October 25 when a huge release of Veneto wines are to appear. The Quote: “Romagna Mia is doing a festival of Fabiano wines this month.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fabiano Negraro Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +96875, $23.95. -Fabiano I Fondatori Amarone 2003, +96859, $75.95 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fabiano Storica Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +96883, $18.95. -Fabiano Rugala Amarone 2004, +96867, $45.95 -Fabiano Storica Amarone 2004, +673566, $47.95 -Fabiano Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +34058, $14.65 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fabiano Pinot Grigio Terre Degli Osci 2007, +34066, $14.65 -Fabiano Valpolicella, +117259, $16.75 en magnum 1.5L -Fabiano Soave, +116988, $13.75 en magnum, 1.5L The Food: to accompany the wines, which we could drink and match in any order, we had mixed Italian cold cuts with diverse breads, strozzapreti all Romagnola (a meat-based sauced pasta), and the dolce of gelato al Parmigiana-Reggiano (cheese ice cream) – the latter paired nicely with the Amarone. Plus coffee. The Downside: it was lightly attended, maybe because it conflicted with other tastings plus the LCBO Tuesday tasting. Product Consultants were skedded to come after 3:30. The Upside: enough room to spread out and to question the agent, Laura Higgins of Eurovintage The Contact Person: Laura Higgins vintages@eurovintage.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday September 16, 2008 3 PM – 5 PM The Event: a tasting of two newish California wineries, Ceago Vinegarden (Biodynamically Certified by Demeter) located in Lake County and owned by Jim Fetzer, and Jeriko Estate (Organic Certified) located in Mendocino County and owned by Daniel Fetzer. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street West The Target Audience: wine writers. The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines have been sourced and will be available through different streams of Vintages, Consignment, Private Orders, and the like, through the Ontario agent, The Living Vine (Mark Cuff). The Quote: “The Fetzers are brothers, and now have finished their eight year non-compete clause since selling Fetzer Vineyards to Brown Forman”. The Wines: all of these organic wines were very good quality and fairly priced. We were also able to taste a few other organic wines from the Living Vine portfolio; these are also included below. Prices are retail. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Tres Sabores Napa Valley Rutherford Perque No? Zinfandel 2005, $29.95 [dense, chunky] -Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Spatlese 2007, $36.95 [ripe body] -Erbaluna La Morra Piedmont Barolo 2004 Vigna Rocche, $67.95 [quality, extract] -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Sauvignon Blanc Kathleen’s Vineyard 2007, $25.95 [good MVC} -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Chardonnay 2006, $19.95 [well-integrated oak] -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Merlot 2004, $26.95 [dynamite finish] ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Erbaluna La Morra Piedmont Barolo 2004, $54.95 -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Chardonnay Del Lago 2007 $28.95 -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Cabernet Franc Del Lago 2005, $55.95. -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Merlot Del Lago 2006, $30.95. -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Brut Sparkling Wine 2005, Chardonnay, [first organic sparkler in North America], $39.95. -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Syrah 2004, $26.95. -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $30.95. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Organic Vignerons South Australia Grenache/Viognier Rose 2007, $18.75 [off-dry] -Vina Esencia Mendoza Occhioverde Unoaked Merlot 2007, $16.95 -Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Kabinett Off-Dry 2007, $23.95 -Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Estate 2007, $25.95 -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Syrah 2006, $30.95 The Food: California styled pizza at room temperature; the one with bitter greens was excellent. Apparently, one writer (NOT me) finished off all the pizza. The Downside: this was a hurry-up call, with barely 15 hours notice. The Upside: a chance to taste some really good Demeter and Organic wines. The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 4. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 10AM to 2 PM The Event: unveiling of the results of a national study on the perception of French wines, done by CROP for Sopexa. The Venue: Third floor gallery of Burroughes Building, Queen St West The Target Audience: wine importers, media The Quote: “Overall, there was nothing new…BUT there is hard evidence to support what we already knew about. That’s useful” In summary, promotional activities revolve around in-store tastings, newsletters, wine classes, and newspaper articles. The demographics were 18-24 (entry level, cheap, social wines); 24-34 (exoticism, social), 35-54 (hard core), and 55+ (traditional, no real health concerns). French wines, of course, really do well in Quebec, but taper off as one moves westward. There was a suggestion that Sopexa could downsize its Montreal office and enlarge its Vancouver office for more promotion, especially with VANOC 2010. The survey made no distinction between Cellared in Canada and VQA wines, which was unfortunate since most people reported drinking “Canadian” wines. The overall perception of French wines: too expensive, not daring enough, snobby. There was little attachment to French wines outside of Quebec. But there is a potential for growth in Canada through awareness of more artisanal wineries and wine education, such as a French wine club (the former Compagnons de Vins de France? Come on down, Kristine Bach…). The Wines: with the lunch, we sampled some wines from France (where else?): Leon Beyer Pinot Gris 2006 Alsace (attractive), Domaine Lamargue Viognier 2007, Le Bourgogne Chanson Pinot Noir 2006, Chateau Pey La Tour Reserve 2006 (needs time; Vintages Essentials), and the stunning Mas des Bressades Cabernet Syrah 2006 (from Vinexx). The Food: a nice spread of salmon and chicken, plus salads and whole grains, desserts, etc., from Daniel et Daniel. The Downside: too much data was transmitted too fast, and there were no handouts to rely on. We desperately needed summary sheets. The Upside: the survey covered more than French wines – other countries’ wines were also analyzed and how Canadians perceived them. The Contact Person: annmarie.koumettou@sopexa.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 5. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 7PM to 10PM The Event: a Torley dinner with Ilona Kallay (export director) and Robert Koczuba (sparkling wines winemaker), repped by Whitehall. The Venue: Courtyard Restaurant and Bistro, Yorkville The Target Audience: wine writers’ circle The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available now at the LCBO. The Quote: “The Hungarian company makes about 37 million bottles a year, including the standards Jaszbery Riesling and Szekszardi Voros”. The Wines: Torley is part of a company which includes Hungarovin and Chapel Hill, the latter name used for exported single varietal wines. All of the wines were showcased against Hungarian food which we ordered off the menu. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Hungaria Grand Cuvee Brut, +619288, $11.10, largest selling sparkler in PQ, mostly chardonnay, and it shows in its slight citrus finish. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Hungarovin Debroi Cuvee 2007, $7.95, 11.5%, spicy off-dry finish, well-priced. - *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chapel Hill Pinot Grigio 2007, $10 next summer, twist top, 12%, limes. -Hungaria Pinot Noir 2006, $14.95, 12.5%, made for the UK market, 200 cases once at Vintages, some 17 stores report small stock remaining. The Food: I had the mussels and the veal paprikash, passing on the dessert. These wines are certainly food driven, and tasted much better in the mouth with the meal. The Downside: personally, I had a quick misreading of the invite, and I thought we were going to meet Turley wines from California. Ah, not this time. The Upside: a chance to ask questions while breaking bread. The Contact Person: john.brandon@whitehall.ca. The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 6. The Time and Date: Thursday, September 18, 2008 2:30 – 5 PM The Event: the 2008 Sonoma Wine Affair The Venue: Arcadian Court, The Bay The Target Audience: wine media, wine trade, sommeliers The Availability/Catalogue: wines were all over the map, with access through Vintages or Consignment or Private Order. The Quote: “Nice, quiet little show, no feel of being rushed. It was 5 PM before I even knew it. What happened to E & J Gallo? They were only in Vancouver”. The Wines: I did not try all the wines. Notable with their absence from Toronto were Gallo and Geyser Peak, plus Schug Carneros and Sonoma Cutrer. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages 2004 $105 -Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 -Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $80 Vintages March 2009 -Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs 2004 Vintages sparkler -Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2006 $39.65 Lorac -Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill Estate 2006 $26.99 Mark Anthony -Rodney Strong Symmetry Meritage 2005 Mark Anthony -Seghesio Family Home Ranch Zinfandel 2006 $45 Dionysus ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Arrowood Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay 2005 $49.95 Vintages -Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2005 $45 Vintages March 2009 Authentic -Ferrari-Carano Winery Chardonnay Alexander Valley 2006 $40.25 -Flowers Winery Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2006 $66 Rogers -La Crema Chardonnay 2006 -Landmark Steel Plow Syrah 2006 $39.65 Lorac -Pedroncelli Winery Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley 2006 $14 Grape Expectations. -Ravenswood Barricia Zinfandel 2005 -Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005 -Sebastiani Vineyards Secolo 2006 Vintages February 2009 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Blackstone Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $16.95 -Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 $37.95 Consignment John Gibson Agencies -Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2007 -Ferrari-Carano Winery Fume Blanc 2007 $23.95 Authentic -Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2006 $26.50 Lifford -Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2006 $26.50 Lifford -Kendall Jackson Vintner`s Reserve Chardonnay 2006 -Murphy-Goode Chardonnay 2006 The Vine -Trentadue Merlot Alexander Valley 2005 $31.20 John Gibson -Trentadue La Storia Zinfandel Alexander Valley 2004 $35 John Gibson The Food: cheese and pate, crackers, lots of fresh veggies left over. The Downside: nothing really, but the pates and terrines proved all- too-tempting for my over-indulgence. The Upside: a chance to taste some really great wines – it has been three years since the Sonoma team came to Toronto. The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 7. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 4PM to 8PM The Event: a select client wine tasting by Vinexx, showing off most of their portfolio. The Venue: Le Select Bistro. The Target Audience: clients, wine media, LCBO The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through Vintages or Consignment. Selected higher end California wines (Cohn, Dry Creek, Cline, Dutton Goldfield) are by private order only. The Quote: “There are a lot more people here than last year; that’s good news!” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Dutton Goldfield Russian River Chardonnay 2006, $525 case of 12 -Chateau des Charmes NV Brut Niagara on the Lake, +207944, $22.95 -Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling 2006 Niagara on the Lake, +432930, $19.95 for 375 mL. -Graham Beck Franschoek South Africa Rhona Muscadel 2003, $16.8%, $21.80 for 500 mL. -Mas des Bressades Costieres de Nimes Cabernet Syrah 2006, +712174, $18.95. -Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva 2004, +177345, $23.95. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Dutton Goldfield Russian River Pinot Noir 2006, $565 case of 12 -B.R. Cohn Sonoma Chardonnay 2007, $360 a case of 12 -Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek Merlot 2005, 13.5%, $303 case of 12 -Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, 13.5%, $300 case of 12 -Chateau des Charmes Rose Sparkling 2005, $28.95, Vintages in December. -Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay St.David’s Bench 2005, +430991, $19.95. -Canyon Oaks Central Valley California Chardonnay 2007, $13.80 consignment. -Chateau des Charmes Estate Riesling Niagara on the Lake 2006, +277228, $16.95. -Cline Cellars Sonoma Zinfandel 2006, +489278, $12.95 -Graham Beck Western Cape South Africa The William 2003 [cabernets, pinotage], +593467, $24.95. -Chateau des Charmes Estate Cabernet Merlot 2004 Niagara-on-the-Lake, +222372, $19.95 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Cline Cellars Sonoma Live Oak Zinfandel Contra Costa County, 15.5%, $229.50 case of 6. -Cline Cellars Sonoma Big Break Oak Zinfandel Contra Costa County, 15.5%, $229.50 case of 6. -Cline Cellars Sonoma Syrah 2006, +733758, $12.95. -Errazuriz Ovalle Colchagua Valley Panul Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006, $14.65 consignment. -Jacuzzi Vineyards Sonoma Primitivo 2005, +67736 $18.95 The Food: finger foods from servers included terrific pied de cochon, quiche lorraine, tarte nicoise, mushroom tart, pork and chicken liver terrine, steak tartare, and salmon gravlax. This probably hits all the major culinary regions of France. The Downside: it was an almost perfect experience. The Upside: a great chance to catch up with Michele Bosc of Chateau des Charmes. The Contact Person: jdesautels@vinexx.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 8. The Time and Date: Friday, September 26, 2008 10:30 AM to 1 PM The Event: Wine Writer’s Circle of Canada tasting with Peter Gamble, initial winemaker for Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge and Niagara’s Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery. The Venue: LCBO Event Kitchen, Scrivener Square. The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: the Ravines are being released now, the Benjamin Bridges will be along in a few months to a few years. The Quote: “Peter Gamble seems to be a one-man road show for the Bridges, and now he is building over a Ravine”. The Wines: Peter provided us with a comprehensive commentary on all of the wines. 23 wines were shown. And certainly one could tell the 2007 wines from the rest, especially in the reds. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ravine Vineyard Estate Chardonnay 2007, $24 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2007, $38 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Redcoat 2007 [cabernets, merlot], $19 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc 2007, $32 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Merlot 2007, $34 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Merlot Reserve 2007, $55 (90%M/10%CS) – the finest red wine of the tasting, very Euro. Ravine also makes a Reserve Red (a super Bordeaux). -Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve Sparkling 2004 (57%PN/22%C/15%Vidal/6%L’Acadie), to be released in 2011. 225 cases. One of the finest MC sparklers ever made in Canada. We also tasted an Experimental Brut from 2003, a Chardonnay Blend from 2002, and a Blanc de Noirs from 2002. All were excellent, but all were not to be available. -Benjamin Bridge Marechal Foch 2004, $25 in September 2009? From Anne Sperling’s recipe. -Benjamin Bridge Sauvignon Blanc 2005, was a pur laine style from the Loire. Not available, unfortunately. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ravine Vineyard Estate Gewurztraminer 2007, $22 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Meritage 2007, $24 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc 2006, $34 -Benjamin Bridge Marechal Foch 2005, for Sept 2010 release. -Benjamin Bridge Marechal Foch Reserve 2006, for Sept 2011 release. -Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 2007 Sparkling Muscat [muscats, perle of csaba, et al], $23, a moscato d’asti type wine, now sold out at $23 in Nova Scotia. The Food: only water. The Downside: we were also skedded to taste some 38 Nova Scotia wines with Larry Patterson, but we ran out of time. That tasting will now occur in October. The Upside: Peter Gamble is a very easy guy to question, no PR bluff here. The Contact Person: peterjgamble@sympatico.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 95. 9. The Time and Date: Friday, September 26, 2008 1:30 PM to 3:30 PM The Event: a premium wine tasting hosted by Barone Francesco Ricasoli and Diamond Estates Wines and Spirits. Brolio is the largest chianti classico estate under vine. The Venue: Boiler House Restaurant, Distillery District. The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: all of the 6 wines we tasted were available through the LCBO, Vintages, or by Consignment. The Quote: “In 1993 Francesco Ricasoli purchased back the family business after more than 20 years of foreign ownership. Quality immediately jumped up, and 30,000 visitors turn up every year. 210 hectares (out of 250 total) have been replanted since 1994, more than 150 for 15 clones of sangiovese. 80% of the wines are exported.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva, Consignment, $27.95 -Ricasoli Castello di Brolio 2001 Chianti Classico, $49.95, Classics. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ricasoli Campo Ceni 2006, +241844, $12.85, with added merlot and oak components, fresh and juicy. -Ricasoli Brolio 2005 Chianti Classico, +3962, $24. 2006 is coming in now. -Ricasoli Castello di Brolio 2004 Chianti Classico, $49.95, Vintages Feb 14, 2009. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ricasoli Casalferro 2004 Toscana IGT, +92973, $39.95, Vintages Feb 14, 2009. The Food: there were an assortment of appetizers, including min-burgers on ciabatta buns, stuffed potatoes, mushrooms with tomato and cheese, lamb chops, prosciuto on fried bread, and salmon scones. The Downside: in the race to get from Scrivener Square to the Distillery District, I had no time for lunch. So I welcomed the appetizers which we had with the food. The Upside: a great chance to catch up with both Brolio and Chianti Classico. The Contact Person: sanderson@diamondwines.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 10. The Time and Date: Monday, September 29, 2008 Noon to 2:30 PM The Event: a tasting of Podere Poggio Scalette’s “Il Carbonaione” with the owener Vittorio Fiore. The wine agency is Profile Wine Group. The Venue: Grano The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers and restaurateurs The Availability/Catalogue: there is a Vintages Internet release of 10 cases (60 bottles) of the 2004, about $64 for licensees. None of the other wines are available, not even in their cellars. The Quote: The property is in Greve (Chianti Classico) and the majority of vines are 70 years old. The grapes are Sangiovese di Lamole, an original clone. Fiore’s top wine is Il Carbonaione, with its first vintage in 1992. He consistently used French (90%) and US (10%) oak, with the latter used for promoting aromatics. The Wines: malolactic fermentation is used. The clone does not exhibit any sour cherries, just cherry notes. We went from 2004 through 1992. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Il Carbonaione 2001: slightly mature nose and colour, ripe flavours keep on coming, good long finish a bit tannic. Only bottles left in the cellar are magnums. My fave wine with the food. -Il Carbonaione 1999: eucalyptus on the nose, but dissipates with a touch of brett returning. Generous mouthfeel, some mocha tones and a fruity mid-palate. -Il Carbonaione 1994: burnt nose, good aging, still vibrant, bright, slight hint of mint, medium-bodied, a bit light on the finish, may be beginning to fade? ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Il Carbonaione 2004: dense but fresh nose, somewhat closed, minty, textured ripe cherries, hot finish, chewy at times, soft ML. -Il Carbonaione 1992: incredible Bordeaux character, principally from the leafy tones, some underbrush, soft on mid-palate, excellent finish. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Il Carbonaione 1996: old nose, old mouthfeel and finish. A bit tired? Flat, lean, did not evolve and died in the glass, turning shrill an hour later. It has been described as “lean and compact”, and initially went well with food. The Food: following foccacia breads, we had an assortment of salamis, prosciuttos, and sausages with tomatoes and basil and mozzarella. The pasta was with rabbit, tomatoes and garlic. The main was pistachio crusted lamb chops. We were able to try the wines against the food, and vice versa. It was a stunning and enjoyable lunch, since we had all six verticals to try. The Contact Person: info@profilewinegroup.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 11. The Time and Date: Monday, September 29, 2008 6:30 PM to 10 PM The Event: a tasting of recent Marlborough Stoneleigh and Montana New Zealand wines, with Jim Robertson, Global Business Relations Manager for Pernod Ricard New Zealand. The Venue: Ki, BCE Place The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines are coming onto the marketplace; these are the latest vintage (2008 for whites, 2007 for Pinots) The Quote: The Wines: PRNZ makes about 40,000 cases of Pinot Noir. 76% of their exports are Sauvignon Blanc wine. This is the 30th vintage of Sauvignon Blanc for the Montana range. Other wines were also poured. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2007 – 30% aged in oak -Montana Reserve Pinot Noir 2006 Central Otago -Montana Letter Series T (Terraces) Pinot Noir 2007 ($29.95) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2007 -Brancott Sauvignon Blanc 2007 -Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($24.95) -Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Pinot Noir 2007 ($24.95) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) -Stoneleigh Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) -Brancott Montana South Island Pinot Grigio 2008 -Stoneleigh Marlborough Pinot Gris 2008 The Food: we had the private function menu, which consisted of endless streams of Asiatic food, beginning with a salad (seaweed salad) or a soup (miso cream chowder with seafood and truffle oil; I found the oil to be overwhelming). This was followed by makimonos of yellowfin, tempura butterfish, and beef maki. Next up were cold plates of yellowfin belly, tuna and salmon, ika, and a Toro tower. Veggies at this point were white and sweet potatoes, asparagus, enoki and shiitake. Then came the heavy guns of rack of Ontario lamb, beef tenderloin, black cod, and spiced shrimp. Desserts were decadent green tea cheesecake and several different crème brulees. Everything went well with the wines, although the Pinot Noirs shone with the meats. It was difficult to compare and contrast the wines and the foods since there were so many samples of food (we only had a mouthful or two of each) and wine to co-ordinate. The Downside: the Sauvignon Blancs were served just under room temperature; they needed to be chilled more in order to being out the acid. Also, the food came out more quickly than I would have liked, reducing my time in wine-food pairing. The Upside: a really interesting situation in trying to assess wine- food pairing, with so many possibilities. The Contact Person: elisabeth.muir@corby.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 12. The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 1 PM to 9 PM The Event: annual tasting of Profile Wine Group wines. The Venue: Liberty Grand, Exhibition Place The Target Audience: wine press, restaurants, LCBO, private clients. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available via LCBO, consignment, or private order. The Quote: “The event has gotten larger and more sophisticated every year.” The Wines: I did not taste all the wines as there were 19 suppliers from Italy, 18 from the US, 5 from Australia, 2 from Chile, 2 from Argentina, 4 from France, 3 from Spain, 1 each from Ontario, Quebec, New Zealand, and South Africa. Something for everybody in all price ranges and colours and styles. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Merryvale Chardonnay Carneros 2006 ($39) -Cormons Pinot Grigio Sparkling NV Friuli ($36.95) -Marguet Pere et Fils Champagne Grand Cru 2000 ($56, Vintages) -Martin Ray Russian River Chardonnay 2006 ($29.95) -Truchard Chardonnay 2006 ($43.95, Vintages) -Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche Riserva 1999 ($98.95) -Maverick Twins Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($32.95) -Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Brioso 2005 ($39) -L’Ecole No. 41 Pepper Bridge Apogee 2005 ($62.95) -Conn Creek Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($31.95) -Domaine Antolino Brongo Cryomalus Ice Cider 2007 ($38.95, 375 mL) -Chateau Ste Michelle Ethos Merlot 2005 ($45.95) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay Napa 2006 ($27.95) -Cormons Chardonnay 2006 Friuli ($17.95) -Marguet Pere et Fils Champagne ($42.95, Vintages) -J. Lohr Chardonnay Riverstone 2006 ($17.85, LCBO) -Oakville Ranch Napa Chardonnay 2007 ($44.95) -Miner Family Napa Chardonnay 2006 ($40.95) -Wakefield Chardonnay 2007 South Australia ($18.95) -Penmara Semillon Reserve 2007 Hunter Valley ($18.95) -Amity Pinot Blanc 2006 Oregon ($21.95) -J. Bouchon Sauvignon Blanc Chile Reserva 2007 ($18.95) -L’Ecole No. 41 Semillon Washington 2007 ($21.95) -J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Hilltop 2005 ($38.95) -Merryvale Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005 ($32.95) -Peter Franus Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 California ($60.95) -Peter Franus Brandlin Zinfandel 2005 ($42.95) -Martin Ray Tri-County Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($29.95) -Signorello Edge Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 California ($29.95) -Oakville Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 and 2005 [2 different bottles]($61.95) -Truchard Cabernet Franc 2004 ($29.95) -Miner Oracle Napa Red 2005 ($99.95) -Le Dome St. Emilion Grand Cru 2004 ($250) -Colonial Estate Explorateur Old Vine Shiraz 2006 Australia ($33.95, Vintages, Feb 2009) -Colonial Estate Émigré 2006 ($94.95) -Penmara Shiraz Marawarpina 2005 ($37.95) -Fuedi di San Marzano Passito Aleatico 2006 ($32.95) -Amity Pinot Noir Sunnyside Oregon ($49.95) -Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer 2007 ($15.85, LCBO) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Merryvale Sauvignon Blanc Napa 2007 ($31) -Castellunio Lunaria Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($22.95) -Marquis de Perlada Brut Sparkling -Sparr Cremant Brut Rose NV ($22.95) -Painter Bridge Chardonnay California 2006 ($15.95) -Stonehedge Chardonnay 2007 California ($17.95) -Miner Family Viognier Simpson Vyd Napa 2007 ($28.95) -Pares Balta Cava Brut NV ($18.95) -Maverick Barossa Twins Eden Valley 2007 Chardonnay ($32.95) -Chateau Ste. Michelle Washington Chardonnay 2006 ($17.95, Vintages) -J. Bouchon Sauvignon Blanc Chile 2008 ($8.50) -Argento Chardonnay 2007 Argentina ($9.50, LCBO) -Stag’s Leap Cellars Napa Chardonnay Karia 2007 ($70.95) -Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2006 ($21.95) The Food: bread was from the delightful St. John Bakery, Monforte Dairy sheep cheese (Toscano, Paradiso, and Don’s Blue), B Espresso Bar, Niagara Food Specialties (pingue prosciutti), and a dozen olive oils from wineries repped at the show. The Downside: there was no catalogue, just a lined booklet. This meant that we had to write down ALL of the information. My shorthand may not have been exact. The Upside: lots of time to taste and schmooze, especially since the press was invited to attend an hour early. The Contact Person: portfoliotasting@profilewinegroup.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90.